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Rescue Your Skin From the Harsh Winter Weather

By Donna Felice, Register Nurse, Licensed Aesthetician and Certified Acne Specialist March 25, 2015

The cold temperatures and winds of winter have really taken a toll of our faces. Every week clients are coming in with dry flaky skin. Sometimes  to the point of the skin being overly sensitive. 

Dry skin left unchecked can lead to a dull complexion as skin cells become packed together. Chronically dry skin impairs cells' natural exfoliating abilities, and can cause break outs if you are acne prone, and premature aging. Dry skin also leads to a compromised acid mantle. That is the protective barrier that guards our skin and when it becomes cracked, inflammation and sensitivity result.

To keep the skin functioning optimally and prevent long-term damage there are many products and ingredients to choose from. However, even the best serums and moisturizers will not penetrate deep enough into the skin for them to be effective if there is buildup. Starting with a clean slate will help your products into the skin. Regular use of an exfoliant will help remove the buildup so your products can do their job. Clarisonics work well for non-acne prone or sensitive skin. Scrubs that contain jojba beads work well also, but do not use ones with ground shells or peach pits – they are harsh and cause microscopic inflammation which leads to premature wrinkle.

Choose a cleanser that is creamy for normal to dry skin. Creamy cleansers do not lather and sometimes that takes getting used to if you haven’t used one before. You may also need to use a washcloth to remove it as they leave residue. Foamy cleansers are better for oilier skin types as the oil gets lifted from the pores with the cleanser. However, if your face is feeling tight a few minutes after cleansing then the detergents in it are stripping too much moisture and oil from it and you should look for a gentler product or try a creamy cleanser. Creamy cleansers with pomegranate offer antioxidants to the skin, and another popular choice is coconut oil-based. Foamy cleansers with green tea and lemon can brighten and balance the skin. Honey cleansers foam, but honey is a humectant that holds water in the skin.

Toners are helpful at restoring the pH of the skin. If your cleanser is too harsh the pH of the skin is altered. Skin is acidic. Cleansers, especially foamy, are alkaline. That is what creates the suds. The skin's acidic pH is what creates the acid mantle and it takes your skin a few hours to get its pH back to normal. During those hours your skin is more vulnerable to environmental pollution and bacteria. For some this leads to redness and sensitivity, and others acne. A very basic toner is witch hazel. My favorite toners contain hyaluronic acid which also binds water in the skin and are free of harsh astringents. Salicylic toners are suited for oily blemished skin.

An optional next step is a serum. Serums can penetrate into the cracks while moisturizers lay on top. Serums can be corrective and are typically used to target dark spots, sensitive or aging skin. A hydrating serum with vitamin C will not only hydrate, but vitamin C aids cellular repair within the skin. Vitamin C in moisturizers cannot penetrate the way a serum does. A serum with vitamin C should be in a dark bottle as light causes it to lose its potency.

Last, is the moisturizer. There are so many on the market that it is overwhelming. Key ingredients are ceramides, shea butter, peptides, acai and hyaluronic acid. Oily skin needs moisturizer too but a very light weight. During the winter months a heavier moisturizer is needed and in the warmer months a lighter weight. You may not feel the need for a very heavy moisturizer if you are using the correct cleanser, toner and a serum. If you are purchasing those products, opt for a lighter weight moisturizer than you would if you were just using a foamy cleanser straight to a moisturizer.

Still confused? Don’t do it alone. The bare minimum you can do is go to the drugstore and at least get the right type of cleanser and moisturizer with some of the ingredients I listed. Keeping the flaking at bay will help prevent those long-term problems.

Is that the best you can do? No, but busy young moms can’t always do much more. The next  option is to go to Sephora or Ulta where they employ licensed estheticians who can look at your skin and direct you to a better quality product. They can also give you samples to test out at home before you drop the bucks. The very best option is to go to a salon that carries clinical grade products. These products often cost less than Sephora and are chiarally correct – meaning they are formulated to work in your skin and with your skin's chemistry for real changes in the skin.

Product consultations are free at unSPA and you will be given samples suited to your skin. Feel free to call or visit my website at www.theunspa.com to find more information and articles about treatments and ingredients. Spring is here, so put your best face forward!